Adjustable pattern foe drafting dresses



(No Model.) y 3 Sheets-Sheet 1. A. MGDOWELL.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN EOE DEAETING ADEESSES. No. 310,129?. Patented Jan. 6, 1885.l

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WEE-5% WE n m /My J mrjc Nm) N` PETERS. Puma-Lnbngmpncr. wnshmgwu. n.6.

(No Model.) l 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

A. MGDOWELL.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTINGDRBSSES. No. 310,297. Patented Jan. 6, -1885.

3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(No Model.)

A. MoDOWELL.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN POR DRAPTING messes.

Patented Jan. 6 885.

N. PETERS. Pnalovmmgmplwr. wnhmgmn. n4 c ihirren :STATES PATENT OFFICE..

ALBERT MCDOVELL, OF NEV YORK, N. Y.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING DRESSES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No.3l0,297, dated January 6, 1885.

Application filed December 1l, 1883. (No model.)

u Bc it known that I, ALBERT iWIcDowELL, of the city and county of New York, in the State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Adjustable Patterns for Drafting Dresses; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact description thereof.

It has been found expedient to aid the determining ofthe proper contour of the several parts of a garment, more especially the upper portion of ladies7 dresses, by employing ad justable patterns for the several parts-fron t, sides, and back-each with their several dimensions variously adjusted. I have invented improvements therein whereby I am able to determine the sewingdine and also the cutting-line directly from the outer and inner edges of proper border-pieces, can allow for variations in the curvature of the back by drawing aline from an offset on theinneredge of such pattern, determine the line for the buttons and button-holes in the center of the front, and also the line of fold and of the cuttingabout six inches below the waist, and size of the hip-dart. Having these measures, the operator sets the several parts of the pattern each to its several measures, and, laying them flat upon the material, marks with a pencil or chalk along the proper edges and produces the draft adapted to tit the form exactly without necessity for the ordinary tedious itting. I have in my experiments made the patterns of sheet-brass of sufficient thickness to properly support itself; but various other materials may be used. if preferred.

The accompanying drawings form a part ot this specification, and represent what I consider the best means of carrying out the invention.

Figure I represent-s the pattern for the front body; Fig. 2, the pattern for the back body.l and Fig. 3 the pattern for the side body. Alf these are face views with the parts adjusted to correspond each with the other. Ilach rep resents one half, and serves,by being applic( on folded material,to determine the outline o two corresponding pieces ot' fabric. Fig. 1

edge ofthe front, support the upper edge of 'l represents the cut fabric to constitute half o proper changeable dart shapers or gages by a single piece of the fra-me extended from the pattern Fig. l.

front gage to a slot in the bust-gage, adjust and secure the dart-gages by a single slot in the waist-gage, draft the hip-darts with any amount of breadth at the top as well as at the bottom, indicate directly thewidth of the hipdart by gradnations on movable pieces connected, vary the width of the darts at will without changing the waist-measure, vary the width of the front across the bust and the space under the arm and the under arm-piece each independently, change the width of the back at the waist at will, change the dimensions and inclination of the armholegage, change the dimensions of the neck and the dimensions and inclination of the shoulder-gages, and indicate a properly-swelled extension downward for the skirt of the basque at the back and sides. The operator takes the dimensions with atape measure ofthe different parts of the body as follows: around the neck, across the back, thelength oi' back, length under the arm,

length of front, armhole, bust-measure, height of darts, waist-measure, and the hip-measure the front ofthe dress as shaped by the aid of th Fig. 2 shows the cut fabric .t constitute half of the back ofthe dress as shape by the aid of the pattern Fig. 2. Fig. ffrer resents the cnt fabric to constitute half of th side body of the dress as shaped by the aid( the pattern Fig. 3. Figs. 4 and 5 represer the dress-body made up. Fig. .4 is a froi view, and Fig. 5 a back view.

I will use the single word connected7 i imply that parts are adjustably secured t gether with liberty to slide one upon anoth by means ofsuitable slots, and a rivet or sere or clamp withoutliberty to turn relatively cach other. Y

Referring to Fig. 1, the plates A and B I are connected. Theplate B'l is ofbranched for and connected to the plates B and B, T

late C is hinged to the plate B3 and conne( ed to the plate C2. The plate Cl is adjustab hinged to the plate D', which is connected the plate D, which in turn is hingedto t plate E, which latter is connected to the ho zontal extension or branch Bit* of the branch plate Bi. The plate 1' is connected to t )late G2, which latter is hinged to the slightly- :urved plate H, which in turn is connected )y a straight slot and guides to a reversely- :urved plate, H2, which is hinged to the np- )erelid of the plate A, thus completing the lontour of the pattern for the front ol' the lress. The curved parts H and I-I2 serve for lrafting the shoulder. They are just of the width required for the seam, and give the urves required. Other important portions f the pattern, as D D2, are similarly condiloned with regard to width and proper curves. he operator, when the adjustable pattern is i position on the fabric, draws with a pencil or lialk on the inner edges ofthese parts to lay out 1e sewing-l ine, or the li ne along which the falo- `c should be joined to the next piece, and raws with the same or a different color along le outer edge ofthe pattern to mark the line here the material should be cut. The curvalres of these parts of the pattern are so adsted that the curves will iiow smoothlyinto .ch other whether the parts be extended ore or less, thus allowing` a wide range of ljustment while maintaining the proper accful curves. These ends are attained by raight slots and a straight movement of the .rts relatively to cach other in opening or ising. At the front edge the several plates B2 B" are slotted and equipped with suitle rivets and screws, to serve as guiding and justing means. The slots l extend along e line which makes the true center oi the nt ot the dress. Marking with a pencil rough these slots denotes the line on which i buttons and buttolrholes shallv bc located. e material of the severalplates is extended itinuonsly beyond this line to the proper tance, a half-inch, more or less, to denote l line to fold the fabric. This line may be inly marked on the fabric by tracing with eneil along the edge 2 thus presented. A le rectangular opening separates this edge n a sufficiently wide margin held fart-her By marking along the extreme outer e, 3the line of cutting is indicated. rhe 5erial from the folding edge to the cutting eis to be turned' under the dress at the 1t to form the usual re-enforci ng or strength- 1g of this portion for thc buttons and butholes. is a singlenarrow plate, secured at one by a screw, j', vadjustable in a vertical slot he piece B2, and at the other end by a pin ivet, f, free to slide in the plate E. This e F has. a .single slot extending longitudiy, receiving screws c", one of which is the pivot for the pair of connected es Z Z2, and also for the counterpart cof, Z3 Z1. These two pairs of connected 3s form the outlines or gages for one of larts. The other screw, e, forms a coronding pivot for two corresponding pairs nnected plates, Z5 Z, Z7. ZS, which are the s or guidesfor drawing the next dart. lower end of the plate Z is hinged to C at z. The lower ends ol' the plates Zi Z are united together and to the plate C bya single screw, s. Another screw, Z7, performs the functions of uniting the plates Z7 and C2, and also aiding to' connect t-he plate C2 with the plate C. I will mark the word dart in the spaces in the pattern which correspond to the darts. By slackening the several screws the inclinations of the darts may be varied by moving the upper screws, e, to the right or left. The lower end ot the first dart may be narrowed or widened by shifting the screw es to the left or right, and by moving the screws and e to the lett as far as they will go the front dart can be dispensed with entirely when desired. The lower end of the second dart may be narrowed or widened by shifting the screw 2"* to the left or right. This movement will corre. spondingly carry the plate C2 to the kright or left, and thus. avoid disturbing the size ofthe waist, whether one or two darts are used or whether they are large or small. The connected pair of plat-es Z Z10 serves to mark one side, and the connected pair ol plates Z11 Zl2 the other side, of apiece which is to be cut or stitched out under the arm, and which I will terni the third7 or hip dart. The space representing this dart is indicated by the words hip-dart.77 These dart-gages extend a little below the waist-gage. Their inner edges are curved toward each other near the bottom. By following the line thus indicated, the hip-dart is extended downward into the material below the waist, and by coming rapidly to a point, or as near together as desired, gives the required fullness for the hip. I have not deemed it necessary to extend any of the other gages downward in this portion ot' the apparatus. At the sides and backI have provided liberally for producing the exact form of the narrow skirt, which I will terni the basque skirt, as will appear further on. The upper ends of the hip-dart gages Z" Z Z11 Zt are adjusted in a horizontal slot in the plate E by screws .am en. Thelower portions oi'these hip,4 dart gages are adj ustable in various positions on the plate C2 by a single screw, s, connected to the plateZu. Anarrowslottedmovableplate,I, lies on the front ofthe plate (Il, and enables this screwsI1 to also control the position ofthe lower end of the other hip-dart gage, Z" 0, by means of a rivet, c". A closely-correspondin g narrow plate, J, lying in front of the plate E, receives both screws cl c, It is changeable to the right and left with each change of position of the upper end of the plate Z". These plates I and .I are cach graduated on their faces and serve to indicate to the eye by inspection the distance apart at which the hip-dart gages ZA Z'0 and Z1l ZI2 are set, and consequently the width oi' the hip-dart at the top and bottom, respectively. v The connected plates D and D2 constitute the gage `for the up and down seam which joins the front to the side of the dress. They are adjusted to theright and left at the bottom by the screw d, which cntwo constitute agage for the armhole.

' (Shown as composed of The curved branch Mitre gages in a long horizontal slot in C. The up per end of this gage is adjusted to the right and left by the screw di, which is inserted through a long `slot in the plate E. The upper ends of the hipdart gages ZO Z2 are extended a little above the plate E to allow the marking of the width of the hip-dart at that point precisely.

The curved plate G', with its connected plate G2, performs important functions. The Its lower end is held by the screw .:-,which is also the pivot for .the upper end of the hipdart plate Z". It -i'nay be practicable toso narrow and curve these plates G G2 that the inner edge may serve to indicate the sewing linei but I have represented them with the lower end of G wider, and I prefer to so construct it, leaving it to the judgment of the operator to draw the lower portion of' the sewing-line at this point.

Referring to Fig. 2, M is an upright plate. two or more pieces, but riveted rigidly together, so as to se ve as one plate, and it will be so described.) The lower portion is slightly inclined, and is considerably wider, so that while the outer edges connect directly, the inner edges of the upper and lower portions, respectively, form a considerable offset at y. A branch, Mit, extends ont laterally, and is provided with a horizontal sl'ot.l This plate M is connected lo a vertical plate', M', having a rigid lateral branch, il at right angles. The upper portion of M'2 is connected to a plate, Mi, having a curved `f The three plates M SIOSGG branch, )P M2 IW form the gilde for tl e center ol" the back; serves as the gag@ l'or the neck.

N is a slightly-cnrvedplatc having a screw,

mit', by which its upper end is adjusted at any desired point in the slot in To Nis connected a slightly-curved plate, l\"*'. These plates N N2 constitute the gage for the shoulder ofl the back. In use, this gage is set a verylittle longer than the corresponding gage, H H, for the shoulder of the front, in order to insure that when the parts are properly united the fabric in the front shall be held smoothly extended. It will be observed that the slight cnrvatures of these plates NNl, as also of the corresponding plates, H HZ, iiow into each other and produce the required reversely-cnrved seam to give a graceful contour to the shoulder of the dress in all conditions of extension, although the slots are straight.

O is a curved plate hinged to the lower extremity of N2. It alone constitutes the armhole-gage for the back. lA plate, m, is connected to the horizontal arm Milet. These parts Mik* and m are set bythe screwm* with the desired amount of extension and deter mine the width of the back. Ascrew, p, attaches the plate m to any desired point in the slotin O. The same screw, p, serves as a pivot v for the upper end o1" a curved plate, l, whi connects to a correspondinglycurved plat I, which is provided with a screw, pi, adju: able in `the slot in the branch-Mik.

` I is a slightly-curved plate hinged to tl same screw 1r. Its lower end is secured by screw, p, which is adjustable in the slot in horizontal plate, Q, which is hinged to tl lower end ot M. With this pattern, as wit the front pattern previously described, wh( the several parts are adjusted according to tl measures taken, the pattern is laid on tl cloth, and a niark drawn along the outer edg denotes the cuttingline. A niark drawn alon the inner edge gives the sewing-line.

There is one point of` importance whei something is left to the unaided judgment t the operator. A line drawn along the inne face of the lower part of the plate M gives th sewing-line for the back of the skirt. lfror the pointy/airinclined line, 1/ y', is drawn, joii: ing the inner edge ofthe plate M`` ata higher o lower point, according to the form ofthe pei son being fitted. It should join at the poin where the back is the fullest. This incline: line 1/ y', the inner edge of the lower part o hl', and the inner edge ol" the upper portici of M2 and o1' M forni the sewingline lor ilu back seam. It will be observed that th branch M* corresponds with the waist of lh| dress, and that the plate Q, corresponds wit] the bottom of the skirt.

yReferring to Fig. 3, T is a plate having :n inclined branch, T251, at the upper end. lt if connected to the plate T`. These plates art curved but connected by straight slots. Tc the lower end of T'LA is hinged a curved plate. U, to the lower end of which latter is hinged a straight plate, V, havinga long slot in which is pivoted, by an adjustable screw, o, a plate, W', and connected to a curved plate, T, which is hinged to the branch T* at'the top. A plate, X, hinged to the lower end of T, is provided with a long slot in which is set a screw, ai, attached to the plate W. This pattern shapes the side body of the dress. A line is drawn with a pencil or chalk along the outer edges of the several pla-tes to indicate the cntting-line. Another line drawn on the inner edgesot' the several plates indicates the sewing-line. The plate X corresponds to the waist-line. The plate V corresponds to the lower edge of the skirt. The branch T* at the top drafts the portion of the side body which is presented under the arm.

Modifications may be made in some of the details. I prefer to use hard brass, but believe that steel and various other materials may be used for the several plates and I'asteir ings, care being taken to avoid oxidation. I

can employ thin wood made of veneers glued crosswise to prevent splitting.

The construction ot' the rivets, screws, or their equivalents, including various forms of clamps, which gage and confine the several connected parts, may be varied.

I deem it iinrtant that these parts be arranged to allow easy adjustment of length and to give the oper stiffness. The width of the slots in the veral parts may be varied. By clamping ound the parts the slots may be dispensed th, and by making the clamps short they ,ll not fatally interfere with the use of the iter and inner edges as guides for drafting e several lines. The gage Mii* m may be ade to serve in one piece by giving surplus ngth and making the connection at either id or both ends adjustable. So, also, varils other gages, including the side-seam gage, D2, and the severalhip-dart gages, may be Lch made in a single piece with a surplus of ngth, and allowed to project beyond the exsnt required at one or both ends. The prolcting lower ends of thehip-dart plates Z Z lay belomitted, and all of the hip-dart below ie waist may be drawn bythe operator withut aid from the gages; or, if preferred, there lay be a further extension downward of these arts, or of additional parts applied for the urpose. I can equip the whole front pattern fith parts intended to aid in drafting the skirt t the front; but I do not deem such necessary r desirable.

Some of the advantages due to certain feaures of the invention may be separately enuuerated as follows: First, by reason of the act that the border is of a width correspondng to that required in the fabric for the seam r portion outside ofthe sewing-line, I am able o draft thesewing-line and the cutting-line )y a single application of the pattern; second, )y reason ofthe fact'that the front gage,B B'l B, s formed with the slotsl and the two parallel Edges 2 and 3 at the proper distances therefrom, Iam able, bya single pattern and at one ipplication thereof, to draft the center line for the buttons and button-holes, and also the folding-line and cutting-line; third, by reason of the fact that the dart-brace plate It, slotted as shown, and receiving the screws e and z, tovallow the adjustment of the dartgages, is adjustable in a vertical slot in the front plate, B2, while the other end is allowed to play freely in the horizontal slot in the plate E, I am able to employ a brace in a single piecc and to adjust its front-at any height, and to insure that the necessary adj ustment of the other end is automatically made;

fourth, by reason of the connected plates C C2, in combination with each other and with the front-line gage, BL B, and with two or `more dart-gages, Z Z Z V 1, I am able to vary the width of the dart or dartsY without changing the waist-measure; fifth, by reason of the branch Bit* from the central frontA plate, B2,

and the adj ustably-connected,plate E with the side-seam gage D D2, hip-dart gage Zw Zw, armhole-gage G', and adjusting means ,am z, I am able to change the size of the armhole, the width of the front and the top of the under arm-piece, and to place the under arm-piece and front any distance apart without losing the bust-measure; or, I can make these variations as required without varying the bust-measure; sixth, by reason of the independent screw zu connecting the plate 7o Z12 to the plate E at any required distance from the screw al, I am able to set the width of the upper end of thehip-dart, then to shift the same to right or left, and thus to draft the under arm-piece in any desired position rela- 75 tively to the grain of the cloth; seventh, by reason of the combination, with the plates Cl and E, of the plates I and J, slotted and graduated 'as shown, each pivoted at one end to one of the hip-dart gages and adjustable relatively 8o to the other hip-dart gage, I am able to ascertain by inspection the width of the hip-dart at the top and bottom, respectively, and thus to avoid the necessity for any measuring or calculating in order to determine how much 85 to allow therefor in the waist-measure or bustmeasure; eighth, by reason of the branch M* extending horizontally from the back gage, slotted as shown, the screw p2, adjustable therein, and adjustable gage 1? I)2 for the curved 9o line, I am able to draft the back with any width at the waist, according to the fashion, and by graduating the slot on the branch M* may determine instantly by inspection the amount to be deducted therefor from the waist-meas- 9 5 ure on the side body; ninth, by reason of the extension of the plate XV below the waist-- line, and of the hinge-plates V and U, in combination with the plate for drafting the parts immediately above, I am able to draft the side 10o of the skirt at the same time and with a certainty of harmony with the side body.

I claim as my inventionl. An adjustable pattern for drafting garments, having the whole or a portion of the 105 edge formed of plates of such width and so arranged that the inner edge corresponds to the sewing-line and the outer edge to theV cuttingline, so that both lines can be drafted therefrom at `'one operation, all substantially as r 1o herein specified.

2. In an adjustable pattern for drafting the front of a garment, the front gage composed of two or more separate plates, vconnected as shown, and provided with longitudinal slots l, 1 i 5 corresponding to the line of buttons and button-holes, an edge, 2, corresponding to the folding-line, and an edge, 3, corresponding to the cutting-line,combined and arranged so that all three linesmay be drafted at a single ap- 12o plication of the pattern, all substantially asl herein specified.

3. In an adjustable pattern for drafting the front of a ladys garment, two or more dartgages having their lower ends supported in 125 the waist-gage at adjustable distances apart, in combination with a single brace, F, pivoted at adjustable heights in the front gage, B, while the other end is free to adjust itself on the bust-gage E, as herein specified. 13o

4. In an adjustable pattern for drafting the front of aladys garment, the extensible plates C C2, in combination with each other, and With a suitable front-line gage and two or more extensible dart-gages, Z Z2 Z7 Z8, and pivot-pins z', z2, z, and el, as herein specified.

5. In an adjustable pattern for drafting the front of a ladys garment, the horizontal pla-te E, in combination with the branch B I E= of the front plate, B2, provided with suitable guiding and adjusting means, the adjusting screw el", connecting the arlnhole-gage G at a changeable point, and thehip-dart gages ZO Z, and side-seam gage D D, and provision for-adjusting their positions, all adapted to serve as herein speciiied.

G. In an adjustable pattern for drafting garments, the independent connections .am e on the bust-gage E, whereby the hip-dart gages Z Z1 Zu ZI2 are adjustable at variable distanees apart at top, in combination with means for also adjusting'the distance apart at the bottom, and for shifting the position of the piece relatively to the grain of the cloth, substantially as and for the purposes herein specified.

7. In an adjustable pattern for drafting gar` ments, the graduated plates I and J, in combination with thehip-dart gages `Z9 Z10 and Z Z7 and with the properly slotted gages C2 and E, arranged to serve as herein specified.

8. In an adjustable pattern for drafting the back of a garment, the upright plate M', branch or cross piece Mii, and curved gage P P, pivoted at each end and made in two separate parts, extensible as shown, in combina tion with the adjusting means p2, adapted to p ALBERT MCDOWELL.

IVitfnesses:

WM. C. Dm, M. F. BOYLE. 

